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马甲、马褂与马有什么关系?

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2022-06-10 16:19
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正确答案
旧时人们穿在长袍外面的背心或短褂,因便于骑马,故名“马甲”、“马褂”。马甲,又名背心、背子,无袖而短,通常着于衫外,古时妇女所着有长与衫同的,称为长马甲。发展至清代,男女均可穿着马甲,有大襟、一字襟、对襟及琵琶襟等形制,长度多到腰际,并常缀有花边。
后妃马褂马褂是一种穿于袍服外的短衣,衣长至脐,袖仅遮肘,主要是为了便于骑马,故称为“马褂”。满人初入关时,只限于八旗士兵穿用。直到康熙、雍正年间,才开始在社会上流行,并发展成单、夹、纱、皮、棉等服装,士庶都可穿着。时代不同,用料、颜色、缀饰也有差别。乾隆时曾流行毛朝外的皮马褂,均用珍贵裘皮,非一般人所能置。辛亥革命后,政府曾把黑马褂、蓝长袍定为礼服,长袍马褂一度流行全国。20世纪40年代后逐渐减少。
马褂的样式有琵琶襟、大襟、对襟三种。琵琶襟马褂,因其右襟短缺,又叫缺襟马褂,穿上它可以行动自如,常用作出行装。大襟马褂,则将衣襟开在右边,四周用异色作为缘边,一般作常服使用。大袖对襟马褂可代替外褂而作为礼服使用,颜色多用天青色,大小官员在谒客时常穿此服,因其身长袖窄,也称作“长袖马褂”。黄马褂是皇帝特赐的服装。有幸穿着这种赐服的人,主要有三类:一是随皇帝“巡幸”的侍卫,所穿黄马褂称为“职任褂子”;二是行围校射时,中靶或获猎多者,所穿黄马褂称为“行围褂子”;三是在治事或战事中建有功勋者,所穿黄马褂称为“武功褂子”,同时,这些人还要被载入史册。

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